《SUNU》杂志创办人/编辑 Amy Sall 与摄影师/艺术家 Carlotta Kohl 带来前瞻思想,分享定义 Pomellato 50周年的非传统哲学。

Amy 与 Carlotta 当选 #PomellatoForWomen 数字广告代言人,她们皆拥有与众不同的大胆个性与一反常规的世界观,这与 Pomellato 一拍即合。Pomellato 赞颂多样性与女性价值,致力于弘扬女性个性与自我接纳精神,反对一切压抑真我的世俗标准。以“色彩”与“真实”为宗旨,Pomellato 数字广告通过鲜亮色彩、光影效果与对比手法凸显 Amy 与 Carlotta 的天然之美。一系列 Pomellato 经典珠宝释放大胆色彩与廓形魅力,经考究混搭,成为玩味十足的珠宝雕塑,女性个性的真实写照。大胆个性,性感魅力:Pomellato 珠宝从不是简单的装饰之物,而是珠宝习俗的悦动定义。

毕业于哥伦比亚大学艺术和科学研究生院,Amy Sall 拥有人权研究硕士学位,是《SUNU》杂志的创办人与编辑。《SUNU》杂志以非洲事物、批判思想与美学为主题,以即将到来的线上平台与纸质杂志为媒介,旨在拓展年轻人关于非洲与移民社群问题的视角。Amy Sall 现担任新学院尤金梁学院文化与媒体研究系兼职讲师。

“美是内在与外在关系的象征。拥有美好的内在,以及健康的心灵、身体与精神,意味着拥有外在美。”

“我不相信所谓的“女性领导力”,我相信强大笃定、尊重伦理的领导力。我学会坚守我的信念与伦理,它们是我生命的基石,为我带来保持真我的勇气。

对我来说,坚持做自己感兴趣的事物至关重要,尤其是在当今世界,我们常被迫拘于常规之时。我将自己与我的事业看作一种跨学科研究;我涉猎的不同事物,我拥有的不同观点相互作用,形成具有全面性的元素。

我的生活经历造就了今天的我,然而,所有的一切皆始于我出生的那一刻,始于我从西非移民到美国的父母。我一直辛勤工作,努力为我的兄妹们树立榜样,让我的父母感到光荣,让他们的付出与牺牲有所回报。可以说,我的野心来自我的父母。”

Carlotta Kohl 在纽约城出生长大,获得纽约视觉艺术学院美术学士学位。凭借独到的时尚感知力与艺术观点,Kohl 担任艺术家、摄影师与模特,忙碌于镜头前后。

“虽然美包含很多事物,但我认为,内在美居于首位。善良、友好比外在所谓的“完美”重要得多。当然,“真实”也是美的一大特质。当一个人懂得欣赏自己的特色,毫不畏惧地做自己时,会散发一种震撼人心的美。”

“我的工作源自我最了解的两件事——我的生活和经验。我使用蜡作画,即传统意义上的“蜡画”。我的工作带领我探索女性的方方面面,以及女性经验与我的关联。我运用一系列棉花糖色调与能够激发共鸣的文字来诠释当今世界女性的成长体验。色彩与形状给我带来源源灵感。我不断从大自然、70年代成人电影海报、面料印花、印刷品、50年代童书与电影中寻找灵感。

我喜爱佩戴珠宝。我喜欢珠宝的触感,以及其作为外在媒介,对内在情绪的表达作用。我拥有一些每天都会佩戴的珠宝。如果没有它们,我会感到身体“失衡”!我的珠宝承载着过往的记忆,它们讲述着我的故事。

我坚持真我,忠于我所做的事,希望能帮助到那些与我有相似的故事,却难于完全接受自己的人。做自己至关重要,毕竟,如果你不做自己,还有谁能代表你呢?

你们以前一定见过罗莎娜·奥兰迪(Rossana Orlandi)。也许不是本人,也许也不是照片,甚至未曾听过她的名字——但是,她的肖像你肯定看到过。

她的肖像别具特色:大大的圆眼镜,灰白色的卷发;身材娇小轻盈。她的风格被模仿、被复制、被数百万次地绘成漫画。

她活波、传奇,是意大利设计的传奇教母,邀你进入她城中的小小天堂,让你痴迷、震惊,让你赞不绝口。她的天堂便是位于米兰著名的圣母玛利亚感恩教堂旁一条小巷拐角的画廊兼商店。如果说著名的教堂是达芬奇信徒的朝圣目的地,罗莎娜·奥兰迪的画廊则是高品位的圣殿。

奥兰迪总是自己负责拍片的造型,在宝曼兰朵系列珠宝中迅速找出与那件带有艾米莉奥·普奇(Emilio Pucci)青藤印花的,为拍照挑选的LaDoubleJ黑色天鹅绒西装相配的首饰。在她纤细的手指上戴上紫色和绿色的Nudo和Capri系列戒指,在她标志性的黑色高领毛衣的领部缠绕上一串串项链。在奥兰迪手中即便是最精细的珠宝也要特别考究,考虑它们的重量、色泽以及搭配,经得起最挑剔眼光的审视。

这种对细节的重视和与生俱来的品位是她的品牌代码,已经成为当地设计的代名词。在年度展会期间,她的画廊成为米兰的非官方使馆,来自世界各地的人们进入店内找到地道的米兰品位,包容且精致,难求亦难仿。

奥兰迪的空间与传统画廊的白色立方体风格大相径庭。最适合用来描述其环境(过去的领带工厂改造成现在的多个画廊空间、一家设计商店、大露台和餐厅)的词汇是“拼装”。既是展示空间,亦是流动档案馆,建筑历史一层层堆叠开来,是名人壮举的升华。银行出纳员木质办公隔断是该建筑还是工厂时从一家银行回收利用的,如今仍保存在那里。每个展台都是无可挑剔的舞台,奥兰迪用以展示画廊中新的收藏。

奥兰迪的空间与传统画廊的白色立方体风格大相径庭。最适合用来描述其环境(过去的领带工厂改造成现在的多个画廊空间、一家设计商店、大露台和餐厅)的词汇是“拼装”。既是展示空间,亦是流动档案馆,建筑历史一层层堆叠开来,是名人壮举的升华。银行出纳员木质办公隔断是该建筑还是工厂时从一家银行回收利用的,如今仍保存在那里。每个展台都是无可挑剔的舞台,奥兰迪用以展示画廊中新的收藏。

有一个房间完全涂成了黑色,这是汤姆·迪克森(Tom Dixon)举办展览后留下的,再没恢复成从前的样子。一层走廊的墙壁上依稀可见黑笔画的草稿;很多都是由奥兰迪认识或支持的设计师勾画的她的肖像。上层的商店还有原来固定在墙上用来展示布料的抽屉柜,有些柜子里甚至存放着原来的东西。商店本身就是一个百宝箱:印有马乌利奇奥·卡特兰(Maurizio Cattelan)形象的锡板,装有10欧元一双橡胶底鞋子的篮子令尼卡祖潘茨(Nika Zupanc)设计的优雅家具和里克·特杰拉(Rick Tegelaar)吊灯构成的空间更加怡人。“当我第一次进入这里的时候,我立马就感觉到,这便是我要的地方。”罗莎娜回望着画廊,喷吐出一缕烟雾。尽管她当时来到这个领带工厂是要找自己居住的地方,但把它改造成展览空间的念头一出现,她就毫不犹豫地付诸实施。

我最先买的那件是赛巴斯蒂安·荣恩(Sebastian Wrong)的旋转灯,她一边吸着烟一边说。“太棒了,比例、形状、色调都非常棒。

现在?奥兰迪认为最潮的设计师当属在斯洛文尼亚出生并完成教育的尼卡·祖潘克(Nika Zupanc)。她的艺术装饰作品讲究平衡:细长脚的沙发上摆满蓬松的色泽柔和的靠垫,折叠床如同八音盒与保险箱的混合体,充斥在建筑物里。似乎仙女教母的魔杖朝你一点就能产生奇迹。

事实上,自从奥兰迪选择了几件样品拿到米兰家具展上展出,尼卡便被Sé London召去做一整套奢华家具的设计,而新的合作请求更是纷至沓来。

那么,家具女王的下一个行动是什么?

完善明年家具展的计划,在优雅的切尔沃港(Porto Cervo)开一家分店(如果能找到理想的场地),不远的将来在国外再开一家分店。看着她被成群的合作者和助手所围绕,电话铃声不断,人们不禁想到,她身边的能量场将给她带来更加精彩的未来。那么幕后的推动力何来?她那明亮的双眸在古董白色大理石太阳镜后闪烁着,心满意足地说:“设计是不可抗拒的。”

设计是不可抗拒的。

BEAUTY FOR US IS THE COMBINATION OF THESE ASPECTS OF UNIQUENESS AND CRAFTSMANSHIP, A BALANCED, HARMONIOUS CO-EXISTENCE OF SHAPE, COLOUR AND MATERIAL. BEAUTY FOR US IS THE EXPRESSION OF TIMELESS ELEGANCE.

Every day we work to combine the poetry, grace and uniqueness of craftsmanship with contemporary design, fashion and taste. Curiosity is what takes you towards new horizons and new discoveries. The discovery of a sophisticated, very old pictorial tradition dating back to when Marco Polo travelled the Silk Route promoting cultural and trade exchanges, made us want to bring it to the knowledge of the West. Our desire was to follow in his steps in the opposite direction and bring this ancient oriental figurative art into our homes.  The challenge was to create a first, second and then other collections in which these two sensibilities, western taste and oriental tradition, could co-exist. Time however has proved us right and today many feel the need to personalise their home or furnish a public space or even an office with gorgeous luxurious hand-painted wall coverings that make any home or workspace unique.

At a time when rooms were still minimal and no thought was given to decoration, we suggested decorating walls with spectacular wallpaper, going against the taste and trends of the moment.

MISHA STANDS FOR MILANO AND SHANGHAI, TWO CITIES THAT REPRESENT TWO VERY DIFFERENT WORLDS, TWO VERY DIFFERENT CULTURES.

Despite representing two very diverse cultures—the Catholic Cartesian West and the Taoist Confucian East—Milan and Shanghai are both proactive, dynamic, sophisticated, hard-working cities.

Living in each culture means coming up against different modus operandi and communication methods at times, but it also means uniting traditions, techniques and figurative models that complete and enrich each other. These two cultures exist side by side, the one complementing the other, in all Misha products.

Misha’s activity embraces both Italian and Chinese craftsmanship, and like any form of artisanship, both express creativity, transmission of knowhow and experience, strongly linked to the physical place and artistic tradition at their origin. The grace and poetry of the oriental figurative technique were for us a source of inspiration and, combined with taste, knowledge and pictorial Italian tradition, they represent our daily challenge in everything we produce. Attentive, continual collaboration between Italian artists and designers and Chinese craftsmen allows us to create constantly innovative projects and work on interesting new undertakings.

Jewels, just like decoration and design, are victims to fashion and time. We like to think that even jewels can express a timeless elegance that embraces tradition and contemporaneity. Like clothes, like the house we live in, a jewel reflects our personality; it is a way of externalising our inner self and of completing what we wear. A jewel is the detail that makes us stand out, that makes us “feel at home”, “feel ourselves”. It is what makes every day different and reflects our mood in a form of self-expression whatever the occasion or event.

A jewel also has sentimental value—it is a gift we wear every day, it is part of us and it is a personal possession that expresses our link with traditions. So, wearing jewels means communicating our way of being and our mood, as well as our personal taste.

Today the line dividing art, fashion and design grows ever finer. On the one hand they share trends, colours and shapes, in the expression of change and shared research; on the other, each discipline senses its own limits and sees the possibility for new fields of expression through exploration of other disciplines. There is no distinction between art and fashion when fashion manages to produce objects that verge on the sublime, with such expression therefore, of the characteristics of research, beauty and perfection that they can be considered works of art.

Misha is an Italian brand that teams tradition and innovation in order to bring the excellence of ancient forms of craftsmanship into contemporary lifestyles. The entire range of Misha products—fine silk wallpaper, fabrics, embroidery and furnishing accessories—recuperate the beauty and uniqueness of art made by hand.

SILVIA: “MY JEWELLERY KEEPS ME COMPANY! I GIVE EACH PIECE A MEANING, AND THEY REMIND ME OF CERTAIN MOMENTS AND BRING ME LUCK. THEY BECOME AMULETS FILLED WITH MY ENERGY”.

When it came to beauty, the Greeks talked about “καλὸς κἀγαθός” or “beautiful and good”; they believed that the body’s outward appearance reflected the virtue of the mind, that those beautiful on the outside were beautiful on the inside too. I like to use this to spur me on to keep taking care of myself, both on the inside and the outside! Beauty means always being self-aware and never letting yourself go.

When I was pregnant with my son Giulio I wrote a list of the characteristics I wanted him to have: tall with abundant curly hair, passionate about sport, courageous and determined! Only now do I realise that courage and determination are learnt over time. I believe life always puts us to the test, encouraging us to exceed our limits and to reveal our courage and determination. Each person does this in their own style, with their own way of expressing themselves. Giulio doesn’t have curly hair.

I’ve worked in communications and PR for five years for the Grand Hotel et de Milan and the STRAF hotel&bar, both managed by an all-woman family! They taught me that taking care of guests and making them feel at home is always one of our objectives, and I think our feminine sensitivity helps us succeed in this!

I come from a beautiful provincial town, surrounded by nature. I’ve been living in Milan for many years now, and to begin with it represented work and toil, with no space for anything else. Now, however, it has become my city. I discovered it gradually, and now I feel like I know all its most beautiful and “secret” corners. I’ve seen it evolve rapidly; for several years now it has been a very international and dynamic city. Despite this, however, it is still people-friendly, and I live here just like I did in my provincial town, getting around by bike and buying bread every day from my favourite bakery!

 

BARBARA: “I BELIEVE THAT BEAUTY PLAYS A FUNDAMENTAL ROLE IN EVERYONE’S LIFE, MAKING BOTH LIFE AND PEOPLE BETTER: I THINK IT IS CONTAGIOUS”.

A world without beauty would not be a happy place; enjoying something in a beautiful place or seeing a beautiful object provides you with joy, magnifying positive feelings and bringing you happiness, which you then pass on to other people. I like things to be carefully honed and yet spontaneous in their simplicity. And I love searching for details whose precious nature is inherent in their making and in the (clear) concepts they comprise.

I’ve always tried to stick to two basic rules, which help me to tackle every day of my life: “never sit down, and always smile”. In other words, give yourself something to do, and stay positive. A small amount of recklessness is crucial to tackle every new project in life. I feel very fortunate to have a job I like and that I can treat as an interest, not as a chore.

I love jewellery when its making, design and form turn it into something precious, but I love it even more if it takes on meaning and so becomes unique. I therefore find it hard to be apart from some of my jewellery; I have a few pieces I am attached to emotionally and always wear, and a second selection of jewellery that I vary, focused more on aesthetics and fun and linked to the choices I make regarding my daily appearance. For me, the biggest difference between a piece of jewellery and any other design or fashion item, and therefore its strong point, is the intrinsic emotional meaning it can carry.

Milan has accelerated recently, becoming more international but retaining its restrained size. My work gives me the opportunity to travel a lot and visit the world’s biggest metropolises, but I always like being able to come back to a city like Milan, with its more manageable dimensions.

I believe very strongly in all forms of crossover: art, design, fashion, architecture, theatre and in general all art forms can exchange energy and ideas, evolving by taking on elements from different fields. I love going to museums and charitable foundations, such as Milan’s historic buildings like Villa Necchi Campiglio or the Boschi Di Stefano Museum-Home. I find them extremely feminine and familiar, places where you can discover your inner self.

 

MODERN BEAUTY CELEBRATES DISTINCTION, CHALLENGES IDEALS, AND ENCOURAGES INTERPRETATION.

At Assouline we bring our point of view to the pages of our books and share our vision of style and beauty, presenting what we find worthy of the attention of our readers.

I hope that the books inspire our readers to surround themselves with what they find beautiful—travel, food, flowers, art, wine, jewelry, fashion, cars, designed interiors, basically all the subjects of our books.

Jewelry adds style and signature as you can wear the same pieces over and over again, and each time you wear them they never lose their relevance and increasingly become a part of you. Style is repetition and the right jewelry transcends time.

I love wearing pieces with provenance and memory like a cocktail ring that belonged to my grandmother or something that was gifted to me or self-purchased in honor of a special occasion. Women should empower themselves as much as possible and buying and wearing jewelry is one great way to do that.

Illustrated books, much the same as fiction, are an entry to worlds we otherwise may never have had a chance to discover. It’s really a dream to be surrounded each day by the richness of our books and the work of the talented authors and photographers that are immersed in.

I read all of the proposals that are sent in to us, as you never know where you might find the unexpected or a hidden gem, and we have discovered many over the years.  I’d say working surrounded by books has kept me curious, open and filled with energy.

The distinctions between the feminine and masculine in the workplace are fading, I don’t see my feminine side come to play too much at work, so I am always glad to have the chance to express it with great jewelry!

Lucky for the next generation, heritage and innovation are not mutually exclusive. Some of the world’s greatest heritage brands are telling their stories in a way that is exciting, rich and digital simultaneously. As we are surrounded more and more by the digital, we will look towards books even more as objects to treasure and enjoy.

AUDREY BOSSUYT IS A GALLERIST AND AN ART COLLECTOR. AUDREY AND HER PARTNER NORDINE ZIDOUN JOINED FORCES IN 2013 TO CREATE ZIDOUN & BOSSUYT, A CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY IN LUXEMBOURG.

For me beauty is a good balance between contrast and harmony and when I am looking for a new inspiration, I need to perceive both feelings. My job is a unique combination of feminine intuition and a capacity to deeply empathize with the artists.

As an art dealer I am very passionate about all forms of art in general and I consider contemporary jewellery as masterpieces of art. I am generally more attracted by bold jewellery. Its weight is reassuring and conveys a true value of authenticity.

When a woman buys herself a piece of jewellery, she demonstrates her independence and gives recognition to herself.

I strongly believe in feminine leadership. The courage to be myself gives me a great sense of joy which fills my body and soul and helps me to fully embrace my femininity. The challenges and achievements of my past have shaped me into a more mature woman, who is in full possession of her means and aware of her strengths.

Milano and Pomellato represent a great sense of elegance, creativity, movement and economic vitality to me. Pomellato is forward thinking, which is something that resonates with my professional vision. As an art collector I have to constantly feel the trends and above all, anticipate them.

My vision of art is very close to fashion as both subjects require a sharp eye and the need to embrace the present time.