AMY SALL, FUNDADORA Y DIRECTORA DE LA REVISTA SUNU, Y CARLOTTA KOHL, ARTISTA Y FOTÓGRAFA, ENCARNAN LA MENTALIDAD ANTICONVENCIONAL Y CON VISIÓN DE FUTURO QUE DESDE HACE 50 AÑOS DISTINGUE A POMELLATO.

Amy y Carlotta han sido seleccionadas para la campaña digital #PomellatoForWomen precisamente por su audaz unicidad, por su modo singular de afrontar el mundo. Celebrando la diversidad y la feminidad, Pomellato desea promover la individualidad de las mujeres y la aceptación de sí mismas, rechazando al mismo tiempo cualquier forma de opresión. Con un homenaje al color y a la originalidad, la campaña digital de Pomellato remarca la belleza natural de Amy y Carlotta en un juego de gradaciones, luces y contrastes. La sabia combinación de algunas de las joyas más icónicas de Pomellato transforma sus colores y sus atrevidos volúmenes en esculturas originales y preciosas, expresión de la individualidad femenina. Audaces y sensuales, las creaciones Pomellato no son nunca meras decoraciones: su frescura triunfal desafía las convenciones de la joyería.

Después de sus estudios en la Graduate School of Arts & Sciences de la Columbia University, Amy Sall ha obtenido una maestría en Derechos Humanos antes de convertirse en fundadora y directora de SUNU: Journal of African Affairs, Critical Thought + Aesthetics, una innovadora plataforma virtual y revista impresa que intenta dar resonancia al punto de vista juvenil sobre temas inherentes a África y a la diáspora que está viviendo. Actualmente, Amy Sall también enseña a media jornada en el Departamento de estudios mediáticos del Eugene Lang College, en la prestigiosa New School University.

 

«La belleza es una relación simbiótica entre lo interior y lo exterior. La belleza externa no es otra cosa que la manifestación de la belleza que uno siente en su interior, de su salud mental, corporal y espiritual.»

«No creo en el ʻliderazgo femeninoʼ, creo más bien en un liderazgo fuerte y ético. He aprendido a permanecer fiel a mis convicciones y a mis principios morales y esto me da valor para ser yo misma.

 

Para mí, es importante no tener que sacrificar ninguno de mis intereses, una cosa extraordinariamente difícil en un mundo que nos condiciona para elegir una caja y encerrarnos dentro de ella. Suelo definir mi trabajo y mi propia persona como ʻtransdisciplinariosʼ: las distintas cosas de las que me ocupo y mis ideas mantienen un diálogo recíproco constante, siempre hay presente un componente holístico.

Mis experiencias de vida me han llevado a ser quien soy hoy en día, pero todo puede reconducirse al hecho de haber sido la hija primogénita de dos inmigrantes en América, procedentes de África occidental. He trabajado duramente para servir de ejemplo a mis hermanos y para honrar a mis padres y sus numerosos sacrificios. Se puede decir que debo a ellos mi ambición».

Nacida y crecida en Nueva York, Carlotta Kohl se ha licenciado en la Academia de Artes Visuales. Caracterizada por un sentido del estilo único y por una visión artística del mundo, se divide entre su trabajo de artista, fotógrafa y modelo moviéndose con desenvoltura tanto delante como detrás del objetivo.

«El concepto de belleza incluye muchas, muchísimas cosas, pero creo que la primera de la lista debe ser la belleza interior. Ser honestos y generosos es mucho más importante que cualquier grado de ʻperfecciónʼ física. La autenticidad es otro factor fundamental para definir la belleza. Cuando alguien acepta sus propias cualidades y no busca excusas para ser quien es, yo encuentro en ello una belleza irresistible.»

«Mi trabajo nace de lo que me es más familiar: de mi vida y mis experiencias. Realizo pinturas con la cera, una técnica conocida tradicionalmente como pintura a encausto. Mis obras exploran las múltiples facetas de la realidad femenina y lo que estas representan para mí. Utilizo una serie de colores pastel y de textos evocadores para dar forma a mi interpretación de lo que significa ser mujer en el mundo de hoy. Me siento constantemente inspirada por la forma y el color. A menudo recurro a la naturaleza, a carteleras de películas para adultos de los años 70, estampados de tejidos, elementos tipográficos, películas o libros para niños de los años 50.

Adoro las joyas. Adoro la sensación física de llevarlas encima y el modo en que logran expresar exteriormente lo que siento. Hay algunas que me acompañan todos los días. ¡Sin ellas no sentiría equilibrado mi aspecto físico! Mis joyas son una recopilación de recuerdos. Cuentan mi historia.

Intento ser honesta y auténtica en todo lo que hago con la esperanza de motivar a alguien que pueda tener una historia parecida a la mía, pero haya encontrado una mayor dificultad para aceptarse. Es importante ser sí mismos, ¿quién más podría hacerlo en nuestro lugar?»

SEGURAMENTE HABÉIS VISTO A ROSSANA ORLANDI. TAL VEZ NO HAYA SIDO PERSONALMENTE, NI SIQUIERA EN FOTOGRAFÍA, PERO SU IMAGEN LA HABÉIS VISTO SIN DUDA.

SEGURAMENTE HABÉIS VISTO A ROSSANA ORLANDI. TAL VEZ NO HAYA SIDO PERSONALMENTE, NI SIQUIERA EN FOTOGRAFÍA, PERO SU IMAGEN LA HABÉIS VISTO SIN DUDA. UNA PERSONA CUYO ESTILO HA SIDO IMITADO, COPIADO Y CARICATURIZADO MILLONES DE VECES.

Es la vibrante hada madrina del diseño italiano, que os invita a regresar a su pequeño paraíso de la ciudad para llenaros de perplejidad, sorpresa y maravilla. Ese paraíso es su tienda-galería, ubicada en una calle lateral detrás de Santa Maria delle Grazie: y del mismo modo en que esta famosa iglesia es meta de peregrinaje para los devotos de Leonardo, la galería de Rossana Orlandi es el templo del buen gusto.

En las manos de Rossana Orlandi, hasta las joyas más delicadas reciben toda la consideración que merecen, estudiadas según su peso y su tono y combinadas con ojo exigente. Esta atención al detalle y un sentido innato del estilo son el toque distintivo de su marca, que representa el diseño local por antonomasia.

Durante el Salón del Mueble, su galería se ha convertido en una embajada extraoficial de Milán, donde la congregación cosmopolita que atraviesa la puerta encuentra una pasión totalmente milanesa por el eclecticismo y la elegancia, tan sofisticada como difícil de imitar. El espacio de Rossana Orlandi es el exacto contrario del típico estilo white-cube de una galería. La palabra más adecuada para definir este ambiente —que aloja una exfábrica de corbatas con múltiples galerías, una tienda de diseño, una terraza y un restaurante— es sin duda «bricolaje».

Espacio expositivo y archivo viviente, donde la historia del edificio se estratifica en una explosión de personalidad con múltiples niveles. Recuperados de un banco cuando el edificio todavía era una fábrica, los divisores de madera siguen en su lugar; cada ambiente posee la medida adecuada para una de las impecables puestas en escena creadas por Orlando para exponer las nuevas adquisiciones de la galería. Hay una habitación totalmente pintada de negro, abandonada así por Tom Dixon después de una muestra y que nunca ha vuelto a su condición anterior. En las paredes del pasillo de la planta baja se suceden bocetos con rotulador negro; muchos son afectuosos retratos de Rossana Orlandi firmados por los diseñadores que ella conoce y sostiene. La tienda del piso superior todavía conserva los cajones originales para guardar las telas que cubrían la pared, algunos de ellos con su contenido original.

La tienda misma es un popurrí de tesoros: platos de lata estampados con imágenes de Maurizio Cattelan y cestas llenas de zapatos de diez euros con suela de goma se disputan el espacio con elegantes muebles diseñados por Nika Zupanc y lámparas de Rick Tegelaar. «Cuando entré aquí por primera vez, no tuve ninguna duda: era el sitio perfecto para mí», nos cuenta Rossana Orlandi revoloteando por la galería y dejando detrás de sí un olor a perfume. Aunque había visitado la exfábrica de corbatas mientras seguía buscando una casa para su familia, se dio cuenta inmediatamente de que la fábrica podía convertirse en un espacio expositivo.

La primera pieza que compré fue la Spun Light de Sebastian Wrong. Es extraordinaria: sus proporciones, su forma, su tacto son fantásticos.

¿Y hoy? Según Orlandi, la diseñadora del momento es Nika Zupanc, eslovena de nacimiento y formación.

Sus objetos inspirados en el Liberty juegan con las proporciones: una cama escamoteable que parece una mezcla entre un carillón y una caja fuerte, sofás con patas ahusadas y suaves cojines en tonos pastel se encuentran esparcidos por todo el edificio. Parece que cuando la hada madrina te roza con su varita, siempre pasa algo.

Por ejemplo, después de que Rossana Orlandi seleccionara un par de prototipos para presentar en el Salón del Mueble, Nina Zupanc recibió una llamada de la línea de muebles de lujo Sé London para realizar una colección entera.

Viéndola circundada por una constelación casi fija de colaboradores y asistentes, con el teléfono sonando continuamente, se tiene la impresión de que el rugido de energía que la acompaña es un presagio de las maravillas que están por llegar.

¿La fuerza motriz que impulsa todo esto? «El diseño», dice asomándose detrás de un par de gafas de sol vintage blanco mármol, con la satisfacción de un gato que ronroneaba, «es irresistible».

EL DISEÑO ES IRRESISTIBLE

BEAUTY FOR US IS THE COMBINATION OF THESE ASPECTS OF UNIQUENESS AND CRAFTSMANSHIP, A BALANCED, HARMONIOUS CO-EXISTENCE OF SHAPE, COLOUR AND MATERIAL. BEAUTY FOR US IS THE EXPRESSION OF TIMELESS ELEGANCE.

Every day we work to combine the poetry, grace and uniqueness of craftsmanship with contemporary design, fashion and taste. Curiosity is what takes you towards new horizons and new discoveries. The discovery of a sophisticated, very old pictorial tradition dating back to when Marco Polo travelled the Silk Route promoting cultural and trade exchanges, made us want to bring it to the knowledge of the West. Our desire was to follow in his steps in the opposite direction and bring this ancient oriental figurative art into our homes.  The challenge was to create a first, second and then other collections in which these two sensibilities, western taste and oriental tradition, could co-exist. Time however has proved us right and today many feel the need to personalise their home or furnish a public space or even an office with gorgeous luxurious hand-painted wall coverings that make any home or workspace unique.

At a time when rooms were still minimal and no thought was given to decoration, we suggested decorating walls with spectacular wallpaper, going against the taste and trends of the moment.

MISHA STANDS FOR MILANO AND SHANGHAI, TWO CITIES THAT REPRESENT TWO VERY DIFFERENT WORLDS, TWO VERY DIFFERENT CULTURES.

Despite representing two very diverse cultures—the Catholic Cartesian West and the Taoist Confucian East—Milan and Shanghai are both proactive, dynamic, sophisticated, hard-working cities.

Living in each culture means coming up against different modus operandi and communication methods at times, but it also means uniting traditions, techniques and figurative models that complete and enrich each other. These two cultures exist side by side, the one complementing the other, in all Misha products.

Misha’s activity embraces both Italian and Chinese craftsmanship, and like any form of artisanship, both express creativity, transmission of knowhow and experience, strongly linked to the physical place and artistic tradition at their origin. The grace and poetry of the oriental figurative technique were for us a source of inspiration and, combined with taste, knowledge and pictorial Italian tradition, they represent our daily challenge in everything we produce. Attentive, continual collaboration between Italian artists and designers and Chinese craftsmen allows us to create constantly innovative projects and work on interesting new undertakings.

Jewels, just like decoration and design, are victims to fashion and time. We like to think that even jewels can express a timeless elegance that embraces tradition and contemporaneity. Like clothes, like the house we live in, a jewel reflects our personality; it is a way of externalising our inner self and of completing what we wear. A jewel is the detail that makes us stand out, that makes us “feel at home”, “feel ourselves”. It is what makes every day different and reflects our mood in a form of self-expression whatever the occasion or event.

A jewel also has sentimental value—it is a gift we wear every day, it is part of us and it is a personal possession that expresses our link with traditions. So, wearing jewels means communicating our way of being and our mood, as well as our personal taste.

Today the line dividing art, fashion and design grows ever finer. On the one hand they share trends, colours and shapes, in the expression of change and shared research; on the other, each discipline senses its own limits and sees the possibility for new fields of expression through exploration of other disciplines. There is no distinction between art and fashion when fashion manages to produce objects that verge on the sublime, with such expression therefore, of the characteristics of research, beauty and perfection that they can be considered works of art.

Misha is an Italian brand that teams tradition and innovation in order to bring the excellence of ancient forms of craftsmanship into contemporary lifestyles. The entire range of Misha products—fine silk wallpaper, fabrics, embroidery and furnishing accessories—recuperate the beauty and uniqueness of art made by hand.

SILVIA: “MY JEWELLERY KEEPS ME COMPANY! I GIVE EACH PIECE A MEANING, AND THEY REMIND ME OF CERTAIN MOMENTS AND BRING ME LUCK. THEY BECOME AMULETS FILLED WITH MY ENERGY”.

When it came to beauty, the Greeks talked about “καλὸς κἀγαθός” or “beautiful and good”; they believed that the body’s outward appearance reflected the virtue of the mind, that those beautiful on the outside were beautiful on the inside too. I like to use this to spur me on to keep taking care of myself, both on the inside and the outside! Beauty means always being self-aware and never letting yourself go.

When I was pregnant with my son Giulio I wrote a list of the characteristics I wanted him to have: tall with abundant curly hair, passionate about sport, courageous and determined! Only now do I realise that courage and determination are learnt over time. I believe life always puts us to the test, encouraging us to exceed our limits and to reveal our courage and determination. Each person does this in their own style, with their own way of expressing themselves. Giulio doesn’t have curly hair.

I’ve worked in communications and PR for five years for the Grand Hotel et de Milan and the STRAF hotel&bar, both managed by an all-woman family! They taught me that taking care of guests and making them feel at home is always one of our objectives, and I think our feminine sensitivity helps us succeed in this!

I come from a beautiful provincial town, surrounded by nature. I’ve been living in Milan for many years now, and to begin with it represented work and toil, with no space for anything else. Now, however, it has become my city. I discovered it gradually, and now I feel like I know all its most beautiful and “secret” corners. I’ve seen it evolve rapidly; for several years now it has been a very international and dynamic city. Despite this, however, it is still people-friendly, and I live here just like I did in my provincial town, getting around by bike and buying bread every day from my favourite bakery!

 

BARBARA: “I BELIEVE THAT BEAUTY PLAYS A FUNDAMENTAL ROLE IN EVERYONE’S LIFE, MAKING BOTH LIFE AND PEOPLE BETTER: I THINK IT IS CONTAGIOUS”.

A world without beauty would not be a happy place; enjoying something in a beautiful place or seeing a beautiful object provides you with joy, magnifying positive feelings and bringing you happiness, which you then pass on to other people. I like things to be carefully honed and yet spontaneous in their simplicity. And I love searching for details whose precious nature is inherent in their making and in the (clear) concepts they comprise.

I’ve always tried to stick to two basic rules, which help me to tackle every day of my life: “never sit down, and always smile”. In other words, give yourself something to do, and stay positive. A small amount of recklessness is crucial to tackle every new project in life. I feel very fortunate to have a job I like and that I can treat as an interest, not as a chore.

I love jewellery when its making, design and form turn it into something precious, but I love it even more if it takes on meaning and so becomes unique. I therefore find it hard to be apart from some of my jewellery; I have a few pieces I am attached to emotionally and always wear, and a second selection of jewellery that I vary, focused more on aesthetics and fun and linked to the choices I make regarding my daily appearance. For me, the biggest difference between a piece of jewellery and any other design or fashion item, and therefore its strong point, is the intrinsic emotional meaning it can carry.

Milan has accelerated recently, becoming more international but retaining its restrained size. My work gives me the opportunity to travel a lot and visit the world’s biggest metropolises, but I always like being able to come back to a city like Milan, with its more manageable dimensions.

I believe very strongly in all forms of crossover: art, design, fashion, architecture, theatre and in general all art forms can exchange energy and ideas, evolving by taking on elements from different fields. I love going to museums and charitable foundations, such as Milan’s historic buildings like Villa Necchi Campiglio or the Boschi Di Stefano Museum-Home. I find them extremely feminine and familiar, places where you can discover your inner self.

 

MODERN BEAUTY CELEBRATES DISTINCTION, CHALLENGES IDEALS, AND ENCOURAGES INTERPRETATION.

At Assouline we bring our point of view to the pages of our books and share our vision of style and beauty, presenting what we find worthy of the attention of our readers.

I hope that the books inspire our readers to surround themselves with what they find beautiful—travel, food, flowers, art, wine, jewelry, fashion, cars, designed interiors, basically all the subjects of our books.

Jewelry adds style and signature as you can wear the same pieces over and over again, and each time you wear them they never lose their relevance and increasingly become a part of you. Style is repetition and the right jewelry transcends time.

I love wearing pieces with provenance and memory like a cocktail ring that belonged to my grandmother or something that was gifted to me or self-purchased in honor of a special occasion. Women should empower themselves as much as possible and buying and wearing jewelry is one great way to do that.

Illustrated books, much the same as fiction, are an entry to worlds we otherwise may never have had a chance to discover. It’s really a dream to be surrounded each day by the richness of our books and the work of the talented authors and photographers that are immersed in.

I read all of the proposals that are sent in to us, as you never know where you might find the unexpected or a hidden gem, and we have discovered many over the years.  I’d say working surrounded by books has kept me curious, open and filled with energy.

The distinctions between the feminine and masculine in the workplace are fading, I don’t see my feminine side come to play too much at work, so I am always glad to have the chance to express it with great jewelry!

Lucky for the next generation, heritage and innovation are not mutually exclusive. Some of the world’s greatest heritage brands are telling their stories in a way that is exciting, rich and digital simultaneously. As we are surrounded more and more by the digital, we will look towards books even more as objects to treasure and enjoy.

AUDREY BOSSUYT IS A GALLERIST AND AN ART COLLECTOR. AUDREY AND HER PARTNER NORDINE ZIDOUN JOINED FORCES IN 2013 TO CREATE ZIDOUN & BOSSUYT, A CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY IN LUXEMBOURG.

For me beauty is a good balance between contrast and harmony and when I am looking for a new inspiration, I need to perceive both feelings. My job is a unique combination of feminine intuition and a capacity to deeply empathize with the artists.

As an art dealer I am very passionate about all forms of art in general and I consider contemporary jewellery as masterpieces of art. I am generally more attracted by bold jewellery. Its weight is reassuring and conveys a true value of authenticity.

When a woman buys herself a piece of jewellery, she demonstrates her independence and gives recognition to herself.

I strongly believe in feminine leadership. The courage to be myself gives me a great sense of joy which fills my body and soul and helps me to fully embrace my femininity. The challenges and achievements of my past have shaped me into a more mature woman, who is in full possession of her means and aware of her strengths.

Milano and Pomellato represent a great sense of elegance, creativity, movement and economic vitality to me. Pomellato is forward thinking, which is something that resonates with my professional vision. As an art collector I have to constantly feel the trends and above all, anticipate them.

My vision of art is very close to fashion as both subjects require a sharp eye and the need to embrace the present time.